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Turtle Soup

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This Turtle Soup story begins in Hardin County, Kentucky, at Fort Knox, where my grandparents taught me to fish.

We would load up the old Buick with cane poles, bobbers, and bait, heading out to the fishing ponds on my aunt’s farm. For an eight-year-old, these trips were pure adventure.

Papaw fished for bluegill or catfish, while Mamaw had her own agenda, catching turtles. She knew exactly how to do it. With her deadlines set, it never took long for a steady tug on the line to signal her victory. What followed was an epic battle of wills—one she always won. The turtle would end up on the bank, and curious as kids are, I couldn’t resist playing with it. I’d offer sticks, trying to get it to bite.

I was, of course, warned: if that turtle bites you, it won’t let go until it thunders. For once, I listened. Watching how fiercely those turtles snapped the sticks, I decided I wanted no part of their business end.

I’ll spare you the details of what came next. The cleaning and dressing of turtle meat wasn’t easy or pretty then, and it isn’t now. The one difference today is that, if you’re squeamish, you can skip the mess and buy turtle meat with the click of a button.

Mamaw would use that meat to make delicious turtle soup. I never knew her recipe—she probably didn’t follow one. It was simply a combination of whatever vegetables and spices she had on hand. Today, inspired by my love of Creole cooking and the iconic turtle soup of New Orleans, I’ve created my own version to include in a French Creole dinner.

This one’s for you, Mamaw—thank you for the memories. Print

Turtle Soup

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Creole inspired turtle soup with the holy trinity and roux

  • Author: TJ
  • Yield: 8-10 servings 1x

Ingredients

Scale

Turtle Soup

 

  • 1–1/2 pounds ground turtle meat
  • 3/4 stick unsalted butter
  • 12 TBL canola oil
  • 14 TBL  flour
  • 1 cup celery – minced
  • 2 medium onions – chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper – chopped
  • 6 garlic cloves – minced
  • 1 TBL salt
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp thyme
  • 1/2 tsp oregano
  • 1/4 cup tomato paste
  • 1/2 cup worcestershire sauce
  • 2 qt beef stock
  • 1 –1/2 TBL crystal hot sauce – more to taste
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice
  • 2 TBL parsley leaf
  • Dry Sack sherry for table-side garnish

Instructions

Make a day ahead to let flavors meld

 

  1. Heat the canola oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, then add the flour 2 TBL at a time and cook, stirring frequently, over medium heat until the roux is mahogany colored. Set aside
  2. In a 5-quart saucepan, melt 3/4 stick butter and add the ground turtle meat. Cook over medium heat until the meat is browned, then add celery, onions, garlic, bell pepper, bay leaves, thyme, oregano, salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables are transparent – about 5-7 minutes
  3. When transparent add the beef stock, tomato paste and worcestershire, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes, then add the roux and cook over low heat, stirring, until the soup is smooth and thickened
  4. Remove the bay leaves, adjust the salt and pepper to taste, then make the final seasoning with the Crystal hot sauce to taste

Serving – Reheat

  1. Immediately before serving stir in the lemon juice
  2. Garnish each serving with parsley
  3. Table-side, drizzle sherry on each portion

Notes

 

 

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